Three years after the chief of clothing giant Nike, Phil Knight, promised
to improve standards in the company's factories, its workers still continue
to suffer repression and poverty wages, a new report released on May 16
has found.
“On May 12, 1998 Nike CEO Phil Knight made a major speech pledging to
reform his company's labour practices. Our report shows that three years
later, Nike workers in sweatshops abroad still work for wages they and
their children can't live on, are forced to work long overtime hours, and
face harassment, violent intimidation and firing when they organise to
defend their rights or tell journalists about labour abuses in their factories”,
said Leila Salazar, corporate accountability coordinator of Global Exchange,
an international human rights organisation based in the United States.
Global Exchange's 105-page report, Still Waiting for Nike to Do It,
examines Nike's performance in relation to commitments made by Knight on
May 12, 1998.
In a speech to the National Press Club in Washington, DC, Knight made
what were, in his words, “some fairly significant announcements” regarding
Nike's labour practices.
Noting that the controversy over sweatshop conditions had made his company's
product “synonymous with slave wages, forced overtime and arbitrary abuse”,
he announced that Nike would adopt new labour policies on health and safety,
child labour and independent monitoring, among other issues.
Knight later described the speech as a “watershed event” that signaled
a “sea change in the company culture”.
The Global Exchange report provides detailed analyses of Nike's performance
with respect to each of the six areas of reform cited by its CEO and concludes,
“Nike has misled consumers and let down the workers who make its products,
who continue to suffer extreme injustice while Nike touts itself as an
industry leader in corporate responsibility”.
The report also provides a detailed, 70-page account of the issues that
Knight avoided in his 1998 speech and which Nike has continued to neglect
during the last three years, among them raising workers' wages, ensuring
that they have the right to form independent unions, and eliminating long
hours of forced overtime.
In 1998, for example, Knight promised to involve non-government organisations
(NGOs) in factory monitoring, with summary statements available to the
public.
Three years later, Nike has arranged only one audit of one factory by
one non-profit group. Nike won't say when, if ever, summary statements
of NGO factory monitoring will regularly be released to the public.
The company also pledged to expand education programs, making free high
school equivalency courses available to all Nike sports shoe workers. Today,
less than 2% of Nike workers have participated in these programs, primarily
because their wages are so low they cannot afford to give up overtime income
in order to take a course.
In 1998, Knight announced a plan to fund university research and open
forums on responsible business practices, including funding four programs
in United States universities in the 1998-1999 academic year.
Nike held one forum in 1998, but has refused to allow factory research
by reputable academics. Most of the academic research the company claims
to have funded is not available to the public.
The company's CEO said that he would ensure that the minimum age for
factory workers was raised to 18 for footwear factories and 16 for apparel
factories. But Nike workers' wages are not enough to support their children,
so many of those children will be forced to work from a young age.
Knight also pledged adherence to US Occupational Health and Safety Administration
standards in factory air quality. But Nike gives factory owners advance
notice of air quality testing, allowing them to change chemical use on
the day of the test.
“During the last three years Nike has continued to treat the sweatshop
issue as a public relations inconvenience rather than as a serious human
rights matter”, said Salazar.
“Nike executives evidently think that by tinkering around the edges
of labour reform they can diffuse criticism and scrutiny. It is indefensible
that consumers and, most importantly, Nike factory workers are still waiting
for Nike to take concrete steps to guarantee the people making its products
aren't facing abuse and intimidation.”
[From Global Exchange <http://www.globalexchange.org>.]